Trims & notes
• #4 metal zip 16 cm (fly)
• Trouser hook and bar
• 18L button (back pocket)
• Fusible (waistband and fly)
• Pocketing
• Woven label (back waistband)
• The pleats only work at 250 GSM and up. On lighter twill they collapse after one wash and the trouser reads as badly cut rather than pleated.
• Stitch the pleats down 6 cm. An unstitched pleat opens when the wearer sits and never lies flat again.
• Grade the rise by 1 cm only. Rise grades far less than waist, and this is the mistake that makes large sizes look wrong on a fit model.
• Ask the factory for the hem left long, or supply a hemming allowance — a 28 cm leg opening on a short wearer puddles badly.