Trims & notes
• #4 metal zip 14 cm (fly)
• 20L shank button (waistband)
• 18L button (back pocket)
• Hook-and-loop 2.5 cm (cargo flaps, ~4 x 12 cm)
• Fusible (waistband, fly, flaps)
• Pocketing
• Woven label (back waistband)
• Care/content label
• The bellows gusset is the one thing to check on the sample. Cut it as a single continuous strip per pocket and press the corners before stitching; a gusset made from three pieces puckers at the corners and no amount of topstitching hides it.
• Specify the hook-and-loop as hook on the flap and loop on the pocket, in that order. Reversed, the hook side faces outward and shreds everything it touches in a wash.
• Garment-wash once, not twice. Cotton ripstop at 280 GSM loses its hand on a second wash and the grid flattens out.
• Ask for a shrinkage test before cutting. Cotton ripstop moves 3-5% on the length, and at a 24 cm inseam a 5% miss moves the hem above the knee.
• Grade the rise by 1 cm, not proportionally. The cargo pocket position is set from the crotch, so a proportional rise grade walks the pocket down the leg at XL and XXL.