Trims & notes
• 4 cm woven elastic (~90 cm, waist)
• 2 cm woven elastic (~2 x 26 cm, cuffs)
• Flat drawcord 1.2 cm (~150 cm)
• Metal eyelets x2
• Pocketing
• Woven label (inside back waist)
• Care/content label
• Give the factory BOTH leg widths: 28 cm at the cuff seam before gathering, and an 18 cm cuff opening relaxed. A single figure gets read as the finished opening and the leg comes back with no volume at all, which is the whole garment gone.
• Specify the elastic as 72% of the casing length, as a ratio and not just a length. State the ratio or the gather will drift across the size run.
• Hold the thigh measurement. 34 cm at 2 cm below the crotch is what makes this a balloon rather than a wide leg, and it is the first number a factory will try to 'balance' down toward the cuff.
• The crotch takes the strain on a full leg. Ask for a 2.5 cm reinforcement bar-tack at the crotch join and a double-stitched inseam for the first 10 cm.
• Sample this in the pale colourway. At 150 GSM a dark seam allowance shadows through, which is why the spec says French seams — check it on bone, not on black.