Trims & notes
• Round drawcord 0.4 cm (~150 cm)
• Metal eyelets x2 (centre front hem)
• Cord stoppers x2
• 1x1 rib (neck)
• Back-neck tape 1.2 cm
• Woven main label
• Care/content label
• Measure and quote the hem with the cord fully released, and put both numbers on the size chart. A factory given one hem figure will assume it is the finished worn width and cut the casing too small, and then the cord has nothing to gather.
• Cut the casing as a separate strip. Folding the body hem up to make the casing puts four plies of 240 GSM jersey under the cover-stitch and it will skip.
• The eyelets must be reinforced with a 2 cm fused patch behind each. An eyelet set straight into single jersey pulls out the first time someone yanks the cord.
• Do not let the factory substitute flat cord for round. Flat cord will not slide through a jersey casing and the hem gathers unevenly on one side.
• Grade the length by 2 cm but the casing height by 0. The casing is a constant; grading it makes the proportion wrong at XS and XXL.