Trims & notes
• #5 moulded zip 22 cm, closed-end
• Woven pull tab 3 cm
• Knit fusible (collar outer, placket)
• 2x2 rib (hem and cuffs)
• Woven main label (back neck)
• Care/content label
• The collar is the whole garment. Fuse the outer ply only — fusing both plies gives a collar that stands to attention and will not fold, which is the single most common sampling failure on this shape.
• Specify the zip as closed-end. An open-end zip on a pullover is a sampling mistake that only shows up on the finished sample.
• Ask for the zip tape colour explicitly. A black tape under a bone body reads as a repair, and factories default to black.
• Grade the zip length by 0 cm. A 22 cm opening works from XS to XXL; grading it makes the collar proportion wrong at both ends.
• At 340 GSM the seam allowances bulk at the collar join. Ask for the collar seam pressed open and the allowance trimmed to 0.7 cm.